Start with the plans. Read and study them carefully.
Trace the curve of the elevator bow onto tracing paper, then scale up to the
work surface:
In this case, the work surface is an 18" x 4' slab of particleboard eft
over from building my work bench.
I covered it with kraft paper, marked off a 2" grid, and laid out the curve.
Then I covered it with waxed paper.
Here's the glue-up table and a set of 5/8" x 1/8" cedar strips. I planed a rough cedar board to 5/8" the ripped the strips usng a zero-clearance insert on the tablesaw.
Stair-step nails holding each lamination in place. Note that they're inserted into a pine block that is attached to the edge of the 18"-wide glueup table. This is a photo of my first try.
On the second attempt I marked the locations for the nails, drilled them on a drill press, and then I was able to easily insert them by hand while the glue was wet.
I did a lot of dry-fitting to work out the details.
Here's a problem - the wood is springy, so the laminations want to lie outside
the line of nail defining the curve.
Using a spring clamp to hold the laminations in place tends to crush the wood
against the nail.
Not recommended.
Even with a carefully-placed and tightened C-clamp you can still get bruises on the inside lamination. The solution is a plastic strip from a drywall corner protector (same as the poor-man's gap seals mentioned by Ron on the FB website [link]. Epoxy doesn't stick to it, and it spreads the pressure from the clamp just enough to avoid crushing the fibers - if you don't tighten too much.
I mocked up an elevator spar using salvaged door skins for plywood, relatively clear scrap pine for the 1/2" members, and scrap maple for the filler blocks. Fitting the blocks was a trial-and-error process. I used a block plane, sanding block, disk sander, and belt sander. It took three tries to get an outboard filler block that was close to satistfactory.
Here's the mockup elevator spar, left as an open box to show the internal structure. The white stuff is epoxy dust - took a sander to it after the glue cured to level out the surface.
Here are closeups of the inboard and outboard blocks. I'm a little concerned about the apparent small voids in the glue joint, which probably resulted when the glue sagged and ran.
Outboard filler block:
Inboard filler block:
I bent up some trial fittings from hardware-store 16-ga cold-rolled steel. (The .065 minimum called for in the plans is 15-ga, so I know this is strictly for test purposes.)